I recently visited the Owens Valley on the eastern slope of the Sierras to put myself in this area of conflicts of the past and attempt to get a feeling for its history. Geographically, the Owens Valley lies between the Sierras and White mountains starting at Olancha just south of Owens Lake and continuing northward for 100 miles. The valley has the stark beauty of the high desert, combined with vistas of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada. Its history could cover volumes, but a few highlights became obvious from my visit there combined with some reading.
The Indian Wars The Paiutes and other Native American tribes had occupied this desert area for countless ages when Americans settlers began moving there in the 1860’s. The Americans brought their cattle that grazed on the native vegetation. (Looking at it today makes me wonder how good the grazing was.) While the two groups coexisted peacefully for a time, the Americans’ incursion on the land caused problems for the natives. The settlers’ cattle ate the plants that the natives depended on for food. A flood in the winter of 1861-62 resulted in game being driven away and other hardships for the natives. Reports tell of starving natives stealing the settlers’ cattle leading to armed conflict between the two groups. In 1863 the U.S. Army sent forces into the area and drove the Native Americans out of the valley. Hardly a proud event in our history!
The Los Angeles Water Wars In the late 1890’s the growth of Los Angeles was clearly limited by availability of water. Mayor Fred Eaton and his Chief of the Department of Water and Power, William Mulholland, planned to bring water from the Owens River, 220 miles to the north of dry Los Angeles. These two methodically acquired major land and water rights, some by normal land purchases and some, as reports state, by subterfuge and coercion. Farmers in the Owens Valley protested, but in the end Los Angeles won. The California Aqueduct was built and began operation in 1913.
Dry-up of the Owens Valley The flow of water to Los Angeles soon dried up the agricultural areas where crops had been grown with a abundance of sun and a shallow water table. Farmers attempted to sabotage the Aqueduct repeatedly but were suppressed. Owens Lake, once covering 100 square miles and as much as 50 feet deep, became a dry alkaline sink. As I stood there looking over this expanse of white powder, I tried to picture the turn of the last century when steamships carried silver and other ores across this lake from the Cerro Gordo mines to the town of Cartago where it was loaded on wagons for transport to Los Angeles.
Father Crowley Against the despair that overcame the farmers who lost their livelihood when the water disappeared, a voice rang out with hope. This “desert priest” traveled the length of the Owens Valley encouraging the farmers to adapt to the situation and develop tourism to take the place of the lost farming. The area began to develop its potential for hunting, fishing, skiing, hiking, camping and mountain climbing. A memorable event was his celebration of mass on the summit of Mount Whitney. Truly he was a hero in a time of need. Crowley Lake on the eastern edge of the Sierra and Father Crowley Point in Death Valley were named in his honor.
Manzanar This area north of Lone Pine was irrigated in the latter part of the 19th century for growing apples. The land produced good crops of apples until the irrigation water was diverted to the California Aqueduct. It then returned to its desert nature. Then at the beginning of World War II,the U.S. Government took people of Japanese descent, immigrants and U.S. citizens, from their homes and placed them in “relocation camps.” Manzanar was selected as one of the camps and eventually was “home” to 10,000 persons. I studied the pictures, memorabilia and writings in the Eastern California Museum in Independence and was overcome by a feeling of sadness that such a thing happened in our country. Later, I drove through Manzanar and saw the markers for the streets on which barracks were hastily built. It was a sobering experience. A video depicting life in the camp can be seen at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fqd-Kh_zpdA
Against the shame that was Manzanar, a form of heroism prevailed. The people confined there kept the camp orderly, raised vegetables and provided a school for their children. The baseball games played by the young men was a source of inspiration to young and old. Above all, the people maintained a sense of dignity.
Restoration Begins Driving along Owens Lake toward Lone Pine, I thought I saw dark veins throughout the white powder. I looked again. Water? Could it be? I later learned that in 2007, the courts ordered Los Angeles Water and Power Division to partially re-fill the lake by diverting water from the aqueduct. The reason was to control the dust that blew from the lake bottom and polluted a large area. The project is still in progress, but some ecological benefits have been realized, including a return of several bird species.
Is there a lesson to be learned from the Owens Valley experience? I think it is a paraphrasing of Winston Churchill’s statement: We must understand the mistakes of the past in order to avoid making them again.
So detailed and interesting! I remember in 9th grade reading a book about the Japanese internment camps called Farewell to Manzanar. It really left an impression on me. On a lighter note, now that I know from you that Manzanar was used for growing apples, it becomes apparent that Manzanar comes from manzana, the Spanish word for apple.
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